Anıtkabır

For our first group outing of the summer we were taken to visit Anıtkabır, the large mausoleum complex built for the architect of modern Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. The main mausoleum is beautiful and is built on a hilltop so it can be seen from many places around Ankara. However, it turns out that the main building is only part of a much larger complex that includes a number of other structures and features several museum exhibits devoted to the tomb's occupant.

The entryway to the complex is called the Aslan Yolu (Road of the Lions) and is lined with 24 lion statues done in the old Hittite style. This is part of the architects' plan for the complex that sought to include some feature from all of the civilizations that have inhabited the Anatolian peninsula throughout history, including the Hittites, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Selcuk and Ottoman Turks, and others. As you can hopefully see from the picture, the road is paved with bricks that are set slightly apart from each other allowing some grass to grow in between, a feature we were told was done purposefully to force the entrant to look down as they walk and thus keep a slight, reverential bow as they enter the complex. Whether that was the intent of the architects or one of the flourishes the tour guides often put on their explanations, the visual effect is still very nice. From there you are led into a large central courtyard ringed with beautiful, classical style buildings that house the museums and the mausoleum. Between the style of the structures, the solemn tone set by the armed guard, and the pomp of the ceremonial changing of the guard, I was reminded of areas like the Tomb of the Unkown Soldier or Lincoln's Memorial in DC, which I have missed since I moved away to Boston. I was lucky enough to get video of the changing of the guard and if I can find a way I will get it posted on here along with the pictures.

The museums were devoted almost entirely to Ataturk's role in the War for Turkish Independence and the reforms that he enacted after taking power. They were interesting for the personal effects of his that they displayed (including everything from the official state gifts he received to his personal library and his favorite dog, Fox, who was stuffed and on display!) and for the dioramas and maps depicting the wars that allowed Turkey to maintain its independence. Some of the displays could be a little heavy handed (the painting depicting the actions of the Greek army in the west comes to mind) but its always interesting to see how another country creates and displays the narrative of their history using maps and paintings and lifesize displays. It will certainly make you look at some of our exhibits in DC differently next time you see them!

The other nice thing about visiting the mausoleum on the hill was that it afforded a beautiful view of the surrounding city. Ankara may have a reputation for being a fairly quiet, administrative town without much in the way of history or culture (wow, the comparisons to DC are just rolling in now!) but from up on the hill you can really see all that has been done since the 1920's to turn the quiet little village into a real metropolitan area filled with parks, bustling shopping districts and beautiful mosques. Maybe one of the luckiest sightings I had on our trip was the view of Kocatepe Camii (mosque) that I had somehow managed to miss every other time I got a view of the city. But more on that in a bit.